Organic Straw Bale Garden Conditioning Recipe (2024)

Friday, April 22, 2011

Organic Straw Bale Garden Conditioning Recipe

How's that for a mouthful of a title? I've written about this topic before and why it's important to condition straw bales before planting. For a refresher check out this post. (You'll also get a glimpse of what last year's garden layout was.) I'm using 15 new bales again this year, but I also left a couple of old bales in the formation for growing carrots and pumpkins.

Organic Straw Bale Garden Conditioning Recipe (1)This is our new layout that takes into account a few things I learned from our first two years using this method:

1) I need more room between the rows so we put two bales at the top of the formation.

2) Extending one side gives vines some extra room and I can still get into the middle of the garden.

3) Using bales from the previous year for growing carrots will give them a 'softer' place to grow. Carrots don't like dense soil so it makes sense they wouldn't like the dense bales. Also, too much nitrogen reduces the number of female flowers on pumpkins. I'm going to try a pumpkin plant in the old straw to see if that helps produce more pumpkins.

4) potatoes can be grown by placing the the seed potatoes directly on the surface and then covering them with straw. That inner row of old bales is my supply of straw to cover the potatoes as they grow in the space I labeled 'potatoes'.

(That white stuff on the bales? Snow. I don't want to talk about it.)

Ok, so lets get down to business. The traditional method of conditioning bales is as follows:

Day 1) 1/2 cup of 34-0-0 per bale and then water the bales
Day 2) water
Day 3) 1/2 cup of 34-0-0 per bale and more water
Day 4) water
Day 5) 1/2 cup of 34-0-0 per bale and water
Day 6) water
Day 7,8,9) 1/4 cup 34-0-0 and water
Day 10) 1 cup 10-10-10 per bale and water

You can plant any day after that if you can feel heat in the bales. Don't forget you'll need a couple inches of potting soil for seeds. Seedlings can be placed directly into the bales.

To condition organically this is what works for me:

Follow the same game plan as above but substitute the following recipe for the 34-0-0 conventional fertilizer above.... Updated to answer the question asked by Summer Jo in the comments - the three numbers stand for the ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium in the fertilizer. This site gives a very detailed explanation if you want to read more about what these numbers mean.

In a bucket combine,
2.5T of Bloodmeal 12-0-0
1.77 cups of Dr. Earth's 5-7-3
1.25 cups of Milorganite 5-2-0
.68 cups of Milorganite 6-2-0

To reach the 10-10-10 ratio I use:
1.77 cups of Dr. Earth's 4-4-4
1.77 cups of Dr. Earth's 5-7-3

Using organic nitrogen sources means it might take a few extra days for the bales to be 100% ready for planting. Use your best judgement - if it's been cool, you probably want to condition a few extra days - it can't hurt! We set our bales out over a week ago so mother nature could give a few extra soakings before we officially start conditioning.

Posted byMamaBearat5:57 PM

Labels:straw bale gardening

5comments:

Sister, we need each other!April 22, 2011 at 7:31 PM

Ok...So I am REALLY wanting to do this, but I am already confused... what is "34-0-0"???

I need this broken down in idiot proof form ;)

MamaBearMarch 23, 2013 at 7:16 PM

For those of you who landed here via Pinterest or a Google search for organic straw bale gardening I would like to direct you to a more current post on how to condition bales using only blood meal.

I had equally good results using only blood meal in my experimental bales in my 2012 bales.

Check out this post for more information and an updated layout for bales that I will be repeating in 2013 - something I've never done before:

http://campgroundcubs.blogspot.com/2012/06/how-to-make-most-of-your-straw-bale.html

AnonymousMay 9, 2013 at 11:01 AM

OK, so some of my bales aren't heating up, and some are warm indeed. I don't want to plant in the "cold" ones, only to have them heat up later and kill the seedlings.

Any advice how to get a reluctant bale to decompose? They have all had equal water and fertilizer; it's been over a week.

bobnjeepMarch 11, 2015 at 4:16 PM

I love the free info you provide.
Do you spread the 34-0-0 just where you are going to plant, or do the entire bail?

MamaBearMarch 13, 2015 at 8:09 AM

Bobnjeep - I mix up the fertilizer in a large yogurt container each day and then sprinkle it out over the center of the bales. It tends to sneak over to the edges on its own and that's fine by me. I just try to avoid losing any to the wind.

Best of luck in your gardening endeavors! (And you might want to check out my post on using straight blood meal instead of Milorganite - it is a cheaper and healthier option!)

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Organic Straw Bale Garden Conditioning Recipe (2024)

FAQs

Organic Straw Bale Garden Conditioning Recipe? ›

Day 1-3: Soak bales thoroughly and keep them damp. Day 4-6: Sprinkle each bale with ½ cup urea (46-0-0) and water well into bales. You can substitute bone meal, fish meal, or compost for a more organic approach. Days 7-9: Cut back to 1/4 cup of fertilizer per bale per day, and continue to water it in well.

What fertilizer to use for conditioning straw bales? ›

Complete fertilizers, such as 8-8-8 or 10-10-10, is an option for maintaining plant health. Evenly apply ½ to 1 cup of fertilizer per bale each month and water in adequately.

What organic fertilizer is high in nitrogen? ›

Compost: Compost is a rich source of organic nitrogen and provides plants a wide range of nutrients. It also improves soil structure and moisture retention. Manure: Animal manure, such as cow, chicken, or horse manure, contains valuable organic nitrogen.

What is the best nitrogen for straw bale gardening? ›

I like to use blood meal as an organic nitrogen source for conditioning the bales. Another option that works well is feather meal. Whatever source is used, it should have a minimum of 5% active nitrogen content. Manure will just not work quickly enough, it doesn't have enough concentration of active nitrogen.

Is Miracle Grow good for straw bale gardening? ›

Water and keep the bales wet for the entire ten days. On the fourth day, pour five ounces (ten tablespoons) of ammonium nitrate fertilizer onto the bales. This fertilizer is often used by farmers and gardeners. Miracle Gro, Flurin, and Hibiscus are all brands that have ammonium nitrate in them.

How much nitrogen do you put in straw bales? ›

Tip: For the first 3 days of conditioning you can use 1 cup of nitrogen and for the remaining 7 days cut back to 1/2 cup of nitrogen every other day. Step 4: Water! You'll want to soak your straw bales 2-3 times daily.

What to use 10-10-10 fertilizer on? ›

10-10-10 is called an all-purpose fertilizer because it can be used on almost any type of outdoor plant, including vegetables, shrubs, trees, flowers, lawns, and houseplants. Generally, it can be applied to any plant that doesn't need one of the three macronutrients in higher amounts.

What are the disadvantages of straw bale gardens? ›

And be darn sure you get them where you want them before you start the conditioning process. They are incredibly heavy once they get wet. They require lots of water. Another of the cons of straw bale gardening is the amount of water you'll need to keep the medium moist.

Can you plant seeds directly into straw bales? ›

To plant seedlings — tomato, pepper, eggplant and greens — make a gap or divot in the top of the bale and set the roots in place. Fill in around the roots with a good-quality, peat-based potting soil, ensuring that the seedlings are well-seated and level with the surface of the bale.

Can you grow tomatoes in straw bales? ›

If you are new to tomato gardening or looking to upgrade your tomato growing plans this summer, straw bale gardening may be the perfect next step. A shorter-term commitment than built raised beds, straw bale garden beds get your garden up off the ground without the investment and permanence of traditional raised beds.

Can you grow root vegetables in straw bales? ›

We decided to grow carrots in the used wheat straw bales over the winter. It proved successful (see photo at right). If carrots have been difficult to grow in clay or rocky soil, straw bales can solve the problem.

Why is my straw bale growing grass? ›

Straw is a by-product of growing grain. It's usually the stems of either wheat, oats, rye or barley. So those sprouts that look like grass are one of those grains.

How long do straw bales last for gardening? ›

How Long Do Straw Bales Last? Straw bales typically last for two seasons before the decomposition process makes them unsuitable for supporting vegetables. But this doesn't mean that you should just throw them away.

How do you preserve straw bales? ›

A simple protective measure you can take is to always stack the bales on pallets to get them off the ground. If you don't elevate the bottom layer of bales, over time, the straw will turn to compost.

How to condition straw bales with blood meal? ›

Straw is high in carbon, so it's necessary to add a lot of nitrogen to create the environment for bacterial growth. Joel recommends blood meal as the nitrogen source. Apply it to the bale by poking holes in the top and pouring the meal into those cavities. Next, add water and let the bacteria population boom begin.

What to do with straw bales after gardening? ›

By the end of the season, the bales will break down, the extent depends on the crops grown in them and the weather. Some hold up well enough to plant garlic in the fall. Others collapse into a rich mound of compost, perfect for adding to containers, amending garden beds or tossing in the compost pile.

How do you inoculate a straw bale? ›

Inoculate Straw: After the straw has drained, disperse spawn evenly on all sides of the bale, getting as close to the center as possible. It's helpful to use a spade, or garden fork to get deeper into the bale. We even used a pry bar to loosen it up. Use one 5 lb bag of spawn for one straw bale.

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